As expected, a whirlwind journey. A few snippets:

I liked Calcutta. It’s not so well traveled – and you can walk around without getting “hit up” for coins or having a palm extended for payment if you take a photo as is so often the case in a third world place these days. It must have been a beautiful place when the Brits were here. Architecture is distinctive …. though crumbling to ruin (not dissimilar to Cuba). Didn’t know this … but Calcutta was once the “2nd city” to London – and was considered the most fashionable city in the world (even more than Paris!). Calcutta was the place from which Britain ruled the whole of India (which then included Pakistan, Bangladesh, etc.)

It’s a big city (15 million or so), but has a tight network of people working hard to improve the place. A thriving artistic community. We attended a garden reception at which many of the local NGOs were on hand to talk about their work. Fabulous morning flower market.

Darjeeling is a fascinating part of India – and, in many ways, doesn’t feel “Indian” at all. Strong Nepalese and Tibetan influences with vintage British Victorian flourishes. (This is the place where all the Brits came to escape the stifling summer heat in Calcutta.) Feels a bit “border-town-ish” – as this is the largest town before Nepal. A bit scruffy …. Like most of India.

Logistically – a challenge. We’re in the mountains, so roads are narrow and winding. We’ll use small vehicles, but it’s still fairly slow going from place to place. Windamere Hotel is a time warp. Straight out of the forties. Quirky and charming. Hot water bottles in the bed at night. (A lovely tradition that I could adapt to cool nights in California!)

“Toy train” is trippy. Tiny little steam engine (“I think I can, I think I can …”). Chugs up the hill on very narrow gauge rails. For the most part, tracks are on the same road as traffic, and the train passes within inches of homes and cars and pedestrians …. Belching coal dust all the way. Little kids wave and people smile as we pass. (I would probably be less friendly if that damn train passed within inches of MY home umpteen times a day!) The depot at Ghum is the highest (elevation) rail station in the world. (Add that one to your trivia!) The train was added to UNESCO World Heritage list in 1980-something?

Yesterday morning, we were out at 4:30 to catch the sunrise over some Himalayan mountain peaks (third highest in the world). Quite stunning – though my pictures will never capture the majesty of the moment when the sun’s rays turned the mountains to gold, then pink, then blue …. On a clear day, you can see the peaks from Darjeeling town.

Last night, we met the son of Tenzing Norquay (the Sherpa who climbed Everest with Hillary in 1953). Group will have an opportunity to visit the home … meet the son (if he’s not traveling as a motivational speaker) – and see a lot of memorabilia from his Dad’s life.

We can also have dinner at a local home. Will probably make this an option. Lovely family … but could freak some people if they’re not too adventurous.

Fell in love with Red Pandas at the zoo …. fluffy, adorable little critters. They do the cutest little “wiggle” with their butts when marking their territory (I know – too much information.). They have an acclaimed breeding program here.

Drove to Glenburn Tea Estate yesterday. Loved it …. Very idyllic, lovely views, etc. But – it’s so distant that it seems as if we have to choose Darjeeling or Glenburn – not feasible to combine, I don’t think. Still ruminating on how to fit it all in!

This morning (8:30), we’ll drive 3+ hours down the mountain to Bogdogra to catch an afternoon flight to Delhi.
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More to come!