What I love about Cuba

… and why I keep coming back here …

(I’m writing this from Cuba …. writing quickly – because internet – although cheaper than it used to be – is not free … and it’s still not fast. Please forgive the typos!)  

This is my 9^th trip here since 2010. People ask me what has changed. Here’s a short list:

• It’s a little more efficient now. Just a little. I remember the “olden” days, when changing money involved going to a special office at the historic Hotel Nacional where we stayed. (The hotel was built in 1930s and was – among other things – the place for an historic meeting of all the American mobsters of the truly “olden” days.) There was a beat-up old couch and a few shabby chairs to accommodate about 8 people. A security guard was stationed outside and he would only let in as many people as there were seats. So there was always a queue. They were much more strict about having pristeen currency – no rips, tears, folded corners or markings of any kind. At the time, there was a better rate of exchange for traveler’s checks, which were difficult – but not impossible – to find. On one occasion, the girl in the currency exchange office could not exchange my traveler’s checks because she’d filled up all the lines on her paper form. She couldn’t change my money until she got a new form the next day. Another time, I had signed my checks with a gel pen – which wasn’t permissible – and therefore my transaction was impossible to complete.

Now, it’s a simple matter to exchange currency at the hotel front desk, even if your dollars are not freshly minted.

• There are a lot more convertibles than before. The taxi drivers that cater to tourists determined a preference for convertibles, so they simply have chopped the hardtops off their sedans.
• There’s decent food now. The first times I came here, all the restaurants were state-owned, meaning they had little incentive to compete for customers by offering great food and service. Choices were pork, Ropa Vieja (shredded beef) and occasionally chicken. Always, always black beans and rice. LOTS of black bean and rice. Now there’s lobster on every  menu. Black beans are available as a side dish, but they don’t automatically put a cauldron on the table any longer. Lettuce is still a rare commodity – probably because it has to be imported, like most of their fish. Strangely enough for an island nation, most of their fish is imported – because they have no commercial fishing fleet.
• They still don’t have: Starbucks, ketchup packets, sugar substitute, traffic jams, ATMs (that work for Americans) or empty storefronts devoid of merchandise.

They DO have flat-screen TVs, some traffic signals with pedestrian signals (some which actually work!), cell phones (not rampant – yet), young guys with trendy hairstyles and merchandise in the shops along the main pedestrian street, Obispo. Though I don’t know who would be purchasing Riedel stemware.

Young Cuban men are making fashion statements with their hair.

• I had bragged about walking the back streets of Cuba by myself, without a shred of anxiety or fear. On our second night in Havana, a woman in my group was walking to dinner with another couple – at the very moment they were remarking about how safe and comfortable they felt about walking those back streets (“Where else in the world would we be doing this?”) – she had her purse snatched. It happens everywhere … but I had never heard of it happening here before. Sigh ……

Typical street scenes of Cuba’s beautiful, crumbling architecture.

• I remember having a pound of coffee beans confiscated by U.S. Customs because it was a commercial product. Though the Customs Officer did apologize profusely, saying, “This is so stupid – all of this will change in a year.” He was correct, even if he was a little optimistic with his timing. Americans can now legally bring home rum and cigars (maximum $100 combined value).
• American politicians are coming. Governor Cuomo from New York is here in Havana with a contingent of business leaders. Will Starbucks be far behind?
• There are a lot more panhandlers. Old people, disabled people … begging for money, soap, shampoo …

Is it ruined yet? No – far from it. Is it changing? Yes, definitely. And, since the softening of diplomatic rhetoric from Washington the changes will be incremental and ever more rapid. Like all change, there are positive impacts. Most importantly, the Cuba people will be beneficiaries of information, internet and income. Regardless of the impact for the average American visitor – that’s a good thing.

Will I keep coming back? Maybe, but not for much longer. The restrictions on traveling here are practically nill. Every tour operator in the U.S. is negotiating for blocks of space. The WOW! Travel Club has always ventured to places that are challenging and somewhat inaccessible. Cuba is poised to become completely accessible to the American traveler.

Should you come here? Yes – absolutely. And soon.

NOTE: I have secured rooms at the two best hotels in Cuba: the Iberostar in Trinidad and the Saratoga in Havana.  I had blocked space for a corporate client who has changed course and is going elsewhere.  If I get an enthusiastic response to this post, I might package this as a WOW! Travel Club journey.  Dates would be the week of October 18.  Let me know ASAP if you are interested, or know someone who might be interested. It might be my last WOW! trip to Cuba ….