Without question, Halong Bay is one of the most gorgeous places I’ve ever experienced. You’ve seen the pictures . . . steep limestone islets jutting spectacularly from the sapphire sea with traditionally-style wooden junks with distinctive square-rigged orange sails in the foreground. In fact, it’s on the cover of the current (April 2013) Conde Nast Traveler magazine.

Two weeks ago, I escorted a group to Vietnam and Cambodia. The 4-hour drive from Hanoi was interesting as it was planting season, and fields were a vivid green with early spring rice. We stopped to watch farmers in their conical hats and knee-high boots wading through their fields planting seedlings of rice in their flooded fields.  Very picturesque. (And I gained a new appreciation for rice – what a labor-intensive crop!)

This is my third visit to Vietnam and Halong Bay, having been there in 2002 and 2009. Tourism numbers are up in Halong Bay, and there were many new hotels with plenty more under construction. There are not many recognizable hotel brands, as most hotel development is targeting the newly-rich tourists from China, which once ruled Vietnam through a succession of dynasties for 1,100 years.

Overnighting on a boat is a relatively new concept here – and it’s the optimum way to experience the wonder of this magical place. A few years ago, there was only one overnight boat – a “faux” paddlewheeler which looked ridiculously out of place. Now, hundreds of traditionally-designed Chinese-style junkboats wait to embark their passengers, as all motor coaches from Hanoi arrive at the jetty at about the same time.

Just a few weeks ago, I read about a government mandate that all junks be painted white. Operators who didn’t comply by April 30 would lose their operating license. It was evident that vessels had been hastily painted.  Even the most luxurious 5-star boats looked shabby. Researching the topic online, it seems that the authorities desired a “uniform look,” and somehow believed that a fleet of white boats would look sleek and luxurious.

A classic example of differences in cultural perception. From a local perspective, Chinese-looking junkboats are unattractive and dumpy while western travelers find them charming and photogenic.

It’ll be interesting to see what happens in the end. I believe they’ll rescind the ruling. Many protests are being posted on TripAdvisor. The natural wooden boats are so much prettier!

Whatever the color of the hull, Halong Bay is just as gorgeous as ever. We boarded (thankfully the crew members handled our mountains of luggage) and got our cabin assignments and were quickly underway. After a tasty lunch of freshly-caught seafood, we got into two-person kayaks and paddled through a cave tunnel into a beautiful grotto where monkeys screeched and frolicked on the rocky shore. A local fisherman laid down a net. Tropical vegetation towered high above us and unseen birds chattered nonstop.

After about an hour, we reluctantly paddled back to the boat.  The vessel then repositioned to Titov (sometimes called “TipTop”) Island where tenders (recently upgraded to include life vests) transferred guests to shore. There’s a decent beach here, but it was mobbed with tourists. Four of us opted to climb up to an observation deck at the summit. The strenuous uphill climb was worth it for a gorgeous view of the setting sun.

Back onboard, we moved to our overnight anchorage, surrounded by the breathtaking limestone mountains. We enjoyed sunset cocktails on the top deck and admired the tenacity (and upper-body strength) of a local lady who effortlessly rowed her tiny boat between the tourist boats, selling snacks, trinkets and seashells. She lives in one of the floating villages which have evolved to support the fishing trade and demands from tourism.

Dinner featured more delicious seafood and refreshing local beer. Despite the influence of the French, we thought it was interesting that wine was expensive everywhere in Vietnam. A young woman laid out a display of local pearl products – pretty, but nothing special. A few of my group opted for in-room massage and we enjoyed the hilarious story of two female roommates who had unknowingly scheduled a treatment at the same time and thus enjoyed their first experience with a “couples massage.”

I wanted to try squid fishing, listed as an evening activity option. They hung a bright light over the front of the boat and I dipped a baited string onto the surface of the water. I was unsuccessful. I learned (or so they told me) that squid are attracted to the light only on foggy nights. My question (unanswered): how does a squid know if it’s foggy? Oh well – I’ll keep squid fishing on my bucket list!

So I settled for a drink on the rooftop deck under the starry sky. A number of boats were anchored nearby, their lights reflected in the still water. It was peaceful and idyllic and perfect.

 

DETAILS:  Mine was a budget-conscious group, so we sailed aboard a junk from the Bai Tho company, which was billed as a 3-star boat.  You get what you pay for … it was definitely not a luxury product.  Staff was fine, cabins basic, food good and maintenance lacking.  Many of the wooden floorboards on the top deck were coming loose.  (Possibly the owner had to decide between painting the boat or fixing the decking…?)  If you’re going to do it, I would recommend the top-of-the-line boats from Paradise or Bhaya Cruises (subject to further research, as new boats are being introduced regularly). I was disappointed that early-morning Tai Chi lessons were not offered on our boat.

If you’re booking individually, the cruise fare will include the transportation from Hanoi.

With so many boats, privately chartering a right-sized junk for an incentive or affinity group is a definite possibility. Check to make sure your boat caters to English-speaking guests. (We sailed with some delightful Australians.) Budget permitting, groups can have a special candlelight dinner in one of the many caves.

Itineraries can vary from the one I have described.

PERSONAL RECOMMENDATIONS:  Come hungry for fresh seafood.  Definitely go kayaking and hike to the summit of Titop Island. Study your camera manual to learn how to take panoramic, night and low-light photos. Spend time on the top deck (preferably alone) late at night and very early – before dawn.  Breathe deeply and enjoy the beauty and solitude. Halong Bay really IS as pretty as the pictures!

For more information about extraordinary travel opportunities like this one, visit the WOW! Travel Club website.