One such moment happened for me 20 years ago in Prague. A decade before, the Velvet Revolution had ended 41 years of communist control, after which Czechoslovakia split into separate countries; the Czech Republic and Slovakia. Prague had been left relatively untouched for all those years.
I was anxious to see this jewel of a city and accepted an invitation to a travel industry familiarization trip. It was wintertime when I arrived late in the afternoon at a nondescript conference hotel outside the city center. We would see the sights the next morning, but I couldn’t wait. After dinner at the hotel, two of us hopped onboard a streetcar that delivered us close to the old town. Snowflakes fell as we walked along a darkened side street which opened up onto a large square.
I looked to my right and gasped out loud. On the far side of the square, towering above a row of ochre buildings which obscured the lower part of an old gothic church, were two stone towers. Multiple spires jutted toward the heavens, all painted black, each one topped with a gold ball. Against the darkened sky, the gold balls seemed to float in the sky. It was one of the most beautiful city scenes I’d ever seen.
Fast forward to April of this year, when I visited Prague in advance of a group I’ll be taking there in October. It’s tough duty, but I need to be up to date on the newest hotel options and figure out how my clients can experience the best of Prague while avoiding the hordes of tour groups. This time, my hotel was a beautiful 5-star property that was an Augustine monastery in the 13th century. One evening, after dinner, I wandered across the Charles Bridge into the Old Town Square.
There it was – the same scene (minus the snowflakes)! There are many gorgeous structures in Prague … but none more beautiful – to me – than the Tyne Church at night. Once again, it took my breath away!
Still as breathtaking as ever, especially at night – the Old Tyne Church in Prague
European cities are especially beautiful at night when their principal monuments are illuminated and the crowds have thinned out. For my money, Prague is one of the prettiest cities in the world! Would you agree?
No shortage of beautifully illuminated monuments in Prague
A water wheel casts its shadows … so much beauty here!
Other interesting finds from my “research”:
Drawing on Prague’s musical culture, each floor of this boutique hotel is themed to a particular artist or composer. From Mozart to Beethoven, from Elvis to Billie Holiday, each room features original artwork and imaginative design.
Signage, tissue boxes, public spaces …. all evoke the musical heritage of Prague
Impressive entrance to an impressive hotel
Plus, in summer months, there is private access for hotel guests into one of Prague’s most beautiful gardens.
Vrtba Garden, a UNESCO Heritage site.
I’m always more intrigued by modern history than about what happened hundreds of years ago. And, as a kid who grew up during the Cold War, I’ve been fascinated to learn more about it from a different point of view. I had a short amount of free time, so I visited the KGB Museum. It’s a tiny, private museum, owned by an eccentric guy with a thick Russian accent who enjoyed demonstrating the various ways KGB used to kill people!
Fair warning: the museum isn’t a great place for kids. He passed knives and guns around with a warning, “Please do not touch the blade, Ma’am; it is full of Nazi blood.”
This puzzled me: I understand how they could consider beer to be an antidepressant, but what’s with the zombies in the cemetery?
Public sculptures (clockwise from top left): Bronze Babies, Peeing Men, ?? Men, Yellow Penguins
There’s something beautiful in every direction – up on the ceilings and down on the parquet floor . . .
In 1988, the communist regime became increasingly irritated when young Czechs wrote their grievances on this wall. Eventually, this led to a clash between hundreds of students and security police nearby. The movement became known as “Lennonism” and Czech authorities described these people variously as alcoholics, mentally deranged, sociopathic, and agents of Western capitalism. The original portrait of Lennon is long lost under hundreds of paint layers, but the wall still represents a symbol of global ideas such as love and peace.
Copyright 2024 WOW! Travel. All Rights Reserved.
7 Comments
Gary Warning June 23, 2018 at 4:02pm
I have a friend from Portugal who has traveled throughout Europe extensively. His two favorite cities in Europe? Lisbon (no surprise coming from him) and Prague. I have not been but I sure want to go!
Terry Givenst June 23, 2018 at 6:32pm
I went there with you 20 some odd years ago. I tell everyone I talk to that I would be willing to give a year off my life to go back.
What a beautiful city so rich with beauty, the arts, the history. I spent every spare minute I had on the St. Charles Bridge and Old Town.
Ron Murphy June 24, 2018 at 2:19am
Back in 1983, with the U.S. dollar so mighty, I backpacked on $5 a day throughout Western Europe. (Missed Spain and Portugal. Darn.) My 3-month plan turned into 6 months, with most of the extra being in “Commie Country” — though a visa to East Germany required too much time. Anyway, Prague was a stop. I was dumbfounded by the architecture! Though I didn’t see as much as Marilyn, judging from her photos. Anyway, what I’ll never forget was walking around town and being unable to make eye contact with any locals (there weren’t hordes of tourists back then.) I felt such a weird vibe, a strange energy in all that. Was I doing something wrong? Did they hate Americans/Brits? It was very unsettling. I shared this at the time with a ‘Westernized’ Czech, and he said “Oh. They’re looking at your shoes. They’re amazed by them. They don’t get stuff like that here.” OMG. I had bought a new pair of Nike hiking boots in the US for my trip. Over the next few days there, I took notice of the locals taking notice of my boots. Sure enough, all gazes fell toward my feet. … I do recall that Hungary seemed much more open and free vs. Czecho at that time. Nicer looking lasses as well!
Doreen Lohnes June 24, 2018 at 4:26pm
In December 2004, I remember standing in a 25 Fahrenheit degree day under the clock in the Prague town square mesmerized by the turnstile men who marched out on the hour. But the guy on the corner behind us was handing out advertisements about a concert that was just then going to take place. By the looks of the marketing, this had the makings of a very hooky event. Yet, with faith and a travelers curiosity, some of us paid our 11 dollars equivalent and trudged along around the corner and down the street to an entry leading to a steep staircase. It looked like a questionable venue, but we pursued the stairs only to find a large concert hall with an lovely old decorated ceiling. When musicians began their program we were lost in the poignant sounds of their expertise on cellos, violins, and horns. This is my cherished memory of Prague, ancient, haunting and full of discovery.
Marilyn July 14, 2018 at 9:11am
Thanks, Doreen, for describing such a powerful and beautiful memory. I love your phrase: “… with a traveler’s curiosity . . .”!
Jack Daly June 28, 2018 at 10:04am
On my list for a 2019 visit. Thanks for tantalyzing photos and words.
Jack Daly June 28, 2018 at 10:04am
On my list for a 2019 visit. Thanks for tantalyzing photos and words.