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Pura Vida? You betcha!

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Question: Can one go to Costa Rica (rich coast) and enjoy a non-coastal experience?

Answer: Absolutely!

I was fortunate to have received an invitation from Auberge Resorts – a collection of world-class boutique hotels – to visit their property in the southern highlands of Costa Rica. I’d been to the country twice before. Once – a very long time ago with my ex and his two young kids – on a little expedition ship called Temptress. Nothing fancy, it sailed along the Pacific Coast, and was a wonderful way to experience the many natural wonders of this country without traversing the significant distances by road.

Some years later, in about 2003, I took my niece and nephew, Kellie and Kyle – to Costa Rica (can you guess why I’m their favorite Aunt Marilyn??). We stayed at an all-inclusive beach resort on the central Pacific coast. We had a blast – did a lot of water sports … but my most vivid memory was the incident when the resident iguana that was chillin’ by the swimming pool mistook my outstretched finger for a French Fry and plunged headlong into the pool, causing yours truly to scream like a banshee until the iguana calmly swam to the side and crawled out of the pool, unassisted. Which, for Kyle, created a lifelong memory with which to forever mock his Favorite Aunt Marilyn. (NOTE: Who knew that iguanas could swim?? I grew up in Michigan, remember?)

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Kyle and Kellie with their Favorite Aunt Marilyn (and I’ll never let ’em forget it!)

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Kellie and Kyle pose with a magnificent Costa Rican sunset

Since then there have been some gorgeous hotel developments in Costa Rica: most notably, Four Seasons and Andaz, on a coastal stretch of the Pacific called Guanacaste.

When I got the invitation from Auberge, I naturally assumed we’d be beaching it. I was wrong. Hacienda AltaGracia is located in the coffee-growing highlands of south-central Costa Rica, near the town of San Ysidro. The owner-developer is a local – who obviously ignored his financial advisors and invested waaay more money in this project than was probably prudent. And it shows.

Apparently, he would fly one of his ultralights over the 900-acre property, mapping out the hillside site plan with cardboard cutouts of the 50 casita units. He would play with his cardboard cutouts like Legos, fastidiously positioning each house until each one had the perfect view and complete privacy. Landscaping was installed early in the process so it would be lush and full by the time they opened – four years later. The smallest casita is almost 12,00 square ft. There are 28 meticulously-kept horse stables, a fabulous spa and four restaurants. The quality of the finishes, fixtures, craftsmanship, furnishings, artworks, etc. was exceptional, which is not easy to pull off in a tropical country.

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Exquisite furnishings and accessories

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Wonderfully whimsical artworks!

There’s nothing else like it in this part of Costa Rica. Indeed, there’s nothing else like it in Central America, that I know of. He hired staff exclusively from the local community, and pride shows in the attitude and genuine smiles of everyone who worked there.

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Even the horses smile at Alta Gracia!

Did I miss the beach? Not for a second!

One morning, we drove for 30 minutes further up the mountain to the tiny rural community of Cedral to visit a coffee cooperative. I learned an interesting fun fact: did you know that there’s more caffeine in a light roast than in dark? And I learned why coffee is so expensive: it’s a lot of work!

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In the community of Cedral, coffee is king, time doesn’t much matter and life is a (relatively) simple affair

On the way back down the mountain, our guide stopped the 4WD in front of a house with a tree brimming with football-sized mangos. He called out to the owner, who happily cut one for us. Naturally, I assumed he knew the woman. But, no – just an example of the “Pura Vida” lifestyle and attitude of this hospitable country.

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Hand-painted sentiment on a rock as we left the coffee-growing community of Cedral.

Another first-time experience for me was taking flight in a 2-seater, open-cockpit ultralight – where we flew over sculptural fields of pineapple, sugar cane and coffee. Soaring only 500 feet above ground, the pineapple pickers waved to us from below.

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Another first: Ultralight flight!

We visited during rainy season, when you can pretty much set your watch to the 2:30 pm downpour. Coming from drought-plagued southern California, it was a real treat to see, hear and smell that much rain! It was amazing. We had accomplished all the activities (horseback riding, zip-lining, nature walk, etc.) before Noon, so the afternoons were a lazy indulgence of long lunches, naps and luxurious spa treatments. Rain didn’t bother us a bit!

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Rainy afternoons made for lazy afternoons (the best kind of afternoon when you’re on vacation!)

And one more first for me: I was competitively challenged to post photos on social media using a “hashtag.” For a couple of years now, I’ve been prodded and cajoled by my younger employees and marketing experts to use hashtags on my Facebook posts to improve my SEO scores. (At least I think that’s what it’s supposed to do.) In any case, I love a challenge, I love to take photos and I love to win prizes so, for a few days last week, I blew up my Facebook feed with photos using #AltaGraciaFan on every post.

Apologies to all of my Facebook friends, but I’m happy to report that I won the photography contest – and was awarded two free nights at the resort!

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It’s a winner! (This photo, too!)

I look forward to returning to Costa Rica at the end of rainy season to accomplish another first: to raft on a raging river of super-scary Class IV and V rapids!

Anybody care to join me?


p.s.  Just in case they’re still tracking me on social media . . . #AltaGraciaFan!

3 Comments

  • Linda Nakamura May 20, 2016 at 10:07pm

    Wonderful blog, Marilyn. Sounds wonderful!

  • Julie Franz May 21, 2016 at 2:56am

    What a great trip! So glad you won! I’d be glad to try to squeeze into your suitcase when you go back! 😉

  • Carla Befera May 24, 2016 at 4:35pm

    Sounds perfect, Marilyn. Would LOVE to join you!

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