Dateline: Antigua, Guatemala – April 2019

Semana Santa (Holy Week) arrived here with the Spaniards in 1524. Nearly 500 years later, Guatemala holds one of the most elaborate celebrations in the world.

I’ve just returned from two weeks in this beautiful country (which had been on my list for a while!) – and witnessed the pageantry first-hand. The trip was organized by my friend, Patricia Andersson, through her company, Heartfire Journeys.

Growing up in a devout Catholic family, I was forced to endure the excruciating “Stations of the Cross” on Good Friday every year. It was worse than being in class. Once I was emancipated, I’ve never given it another thought. But in Guatemala, tradition remains strong and the celebrations commemorating the Passion, Crucifixion, and Resurrection of Jesus Christ are legendary.

On days leading up to the Friday before Easter, purple-robed devotees shoulder elaborately carved wooden andas (floats) with centuries-old statues of Jesus and vignettes of crucifixion scenes. The floats weigh up to 7,000 pounds! Along the narrow cobblestone streets of the UNESCO World Heritage city of Antigua, it took 90 men to carry the float! They shuffle along only one block before being relieved by another group – 45 men of equivalent shoulder height on each side to keep it balanced. Men register more than two years in advance for the privilege. Pinned to each man’s robe is a card with a number, indicating his “turn” to carry … and I counted up to 114 groups! (Doing the math, that’s more than 10,000! Even if some will carry more than one time, it’s still a LOT of men!)

The processional route winds through the narrow streets throughout the entire day and turning a corner involves precise choreography. Elaborate alfombras (carpets) of fresh flowers, pine needles, and colored sawdust are laid down on the streets. Carpets are incredible works of art. Leveling the cobblestones with a thick layer of sand is a feat in itself. After that, intricate designs are created with stencils, shakers, flowers, fresh fruits and vegetables, bread sculptures, colored eggs, and bag after bag of colored organic material. This, too, takes a LOT of people! I was surprised and impressed at the number of relatively young people – including guys – who were painstakingly working on the elaborate designs alongside their older relatives.

Click below to enjoy a short video I created, including time-lapse footage of a family’s carpet creation in front of their home.

Unlike Pasadena’s Rose Parade, most carpets are family affairs – virtually none are commercial endeavors. And, as far as I could tell, no judging or prizes are involved.

The procession began at 5 AM at a church in the suburbs nearly two miles out of town. (We didn’t care to get up that early!) The map showed its circuitous route through the town. According to the schedule, they would not return to the church before Midnight! The solemn, slow-moving procession involves brass bands, incense, guys dressed as Pontius Pilate and Roman soldiers, helpers with long poles used to lift overhead utility lines, and hundreds and hundreds of hooded men in purple. The crucifixion float is followed by one of the Virgin Mary, carried by women.

The beautiful carpets, which took many people many hours to create, were destroyed in a matter of minutes. Symbolically, it’s considered a token of sacrifice.

Next up – the clean-up crew with shovels, bulldozers, and a truck to haul away the flowers and sawdust. Followed thereafter by vendors selling ice cream, bottled water, selfie sticks, and mylar balloons!

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Stay tuned, I’ll be publishing a few more blog posts about Guatemala and my fact-finding, philanthropic journey. I’m interested to offer such destinations with a humanitarian angle (which can sometimes include some grittier lodging experiences) for my WOWees …. assuming there’s interest …?

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