Hoi An is one of my favorite towns in one of my favorite countries. Located in central Vietnam, it’s accessible from Danang Airport (approx. 40 minutes). Despite being one of the most popular tourist destinations in the country, as well as a UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s retained the same charm and appeal which endeared me to Hoi An on my first visit almost a dozen years ago. So how can you get the most out of Hoi An?

1.  Walk.

The Ancient Town is pedestrianized, although beware of the rogue motorcycle. A comfortable pair of shoes, a camera and a sense of adventure will reveal some remarkable scenes. Brightly colored silk lanterns displayed against an ochre wall. Painted paper fans set out to dry in the sun. An old man in his undershirt, reading a newspaper while sitting on a red plastic stool in front of an ancient building.

2.  The Central Market.

Local markets are always a vibrant and fascinating place to explore. A riot of color, chatter and collectibles. Join the locals for a bowl of soup or a coffee sweetened with condensed milk at the Central Market. Look for unusual cooking utensils, spices, and all sorts of goods and souvenirs. Vendors are aggressive in a friendly way. They’ll take the Vietnamese Dong as well as American Dollars (VND 20,000 = $1). Be sure to bargain with them!

3.  Visit a Chinese Assembly Hall.

These historic structures are dotted all over town. Step into a calm central courtyard which was once the gathering point for immigrants from a particular region of China. This is where they would meet with friends, pray to the gods and pay respect to their elders. The closest thing to being in China without going there.

4.  Visit a Tailor.

As long as you’re not seeking an impeccably-tailored business suit, you can get good quality made-to-measure clothes in Hoi An. I had a good experience at Yaly Couture. They did not take a deposit, and did not pressure me to accept anything until the fit was exactly right. Go here on your first day, and expect to return a few times for a fitting. But they sincerely want to make it right. It’s a good idea to bring a sample of clothing you’d like them to copy or a photograph of what you have in mind. Prices are very reasonable. My jackets were about $75, a dress was $60 and a silk skirt was $40.

5.  Take a Cooking Class.

One of the highlights of our journey was a cooking class in Tra Que Village, just outside of Hoi An. We donned aprons and chef’s hats and learned to make spring rolls and a type of open-face omelet (Bahn Xeo) made with rice flour/water mixture, bean sprouts, and shrimp. They call them “Happy Pancakes.”  The instructor, named Tu, was hilarious and the experience was delightful.

 

6.  Eat.

The food is delicious, cheap and healthy. There’s much more variety than the ubiquitous Pho noodle soup. A specialty of Hoi An is Cao Lau, a dish of rice noodles (similar to Japanese soba noodles), sliced pork, crunchy fried croutons and a huge helping of greens. There’s a legend that authentic Cao Lau uses water from one particular well in the city – which is noted on tourist maps. Not sure it’s true … but it makes for a good story!

7.  Drink.

Look for signs for “fresh beer.” Stick a straw in a huge green coconut and drink the refreshing water. And try any number of delicious fruit smoothie combinations. Very cheap. Very refreshing.

8.  Float a Candle on the River.

The riverfront is particularly lovely at night when lanterns are lit and facades are illuminated. Spend a dollar on a “wishing candle” to float down the river. If you’re in town during the full moon, they shut down all electric lights and the riverfront is illuminated only by lanterns and candles. I wasn’t there during the full moon – but will definitely schedule my next visit accordingly!  It’s magical.

9.  Take a Boat Cruise on the River.

The Thu Bon River is a hub of activity. A short distance out of town are a number of islands, sleepy fishing villages, and handicraft villages. Ask your guide to show you one of the traditional round boats – and take a “spin” if you dare!

10.  Stay an Extra Day!

There are so many wonderful places to see in southeast Asia that you may be tempted to stay here only 2 or 3 nights. I’d recommend 4 nights if you can spare the time. Go to the beach. Rent a bike. You’ll not regret slowing your pace and savoring the magic of Hoi An.